You know it's a good thing when you have something that interests you. Even when you go to the other side of the world, you can survive by doing it again and again. One of my survival kits is everything related to books. I attended Seoul Outdoor Library months ago and I couldn't shut up about it.
Decorations of raw plywood paneling were accented by neon green graphics of the Homo duduri (SIBF) mascot, paired with an industrial metal-grate runway illuminated by overhead multi-angle floodlights. There was a prompt:“지금, 당신의 질문은 무엇입니까?” (“Now, what is your question?”)
A buttery-yellow schoolroom complete with arched doorways and dark green chalkboards detailing daily author book signing schedules (오늘의 사인회). Well, I just realized that it was the color of a schoolroom!
This one I didn't expect at all. Even a magazine publisher can join?? I know ELLE, and some K-pop fans will definitely buy it when their idols are featured inside. It looks like a high-fashion, architectural lounge, featuring matte charcoal and stark white curved archways.
Filled with a warm, Scandinavian-inspired wooden pergola ceiling structure, along with a dramatic suspended paper mobile/chandelier made of hanging manuscript pages and artwork. I like that soft lilac color, though—it really calms your eyes.
I felt familiar with this dedicated mirror selfie photo zone framed entirely with vintage, illustrated classic book covers—including Anne of Green Gables, The Jungle Book, Sherlock Holmes, The Wizard of Oz, and Heidi. Is it the same one they had at the Seoul Outdoor Library?? Who knows.
That giant 3D pink-frosted sprinkle donut really catches your eye right away! It had the slogan: “세상에서 제일 맛있는 책을 만듭니다” (“We bake the most delicious books in the world”).
I also managed to capture some programs. Yes, this place doesn't only offer things to buy or see; they also have programs with authors: poetry readings, book signings, book talks, etc. You can see the programs you might want to attend on their Instagram page.
This one was author Gu Byeong-mo (구병모)'s book signing.
In the sea of Hangul books, could I find something to read? Surprisingly, yes! There was an indie publisher booth called Sojanggak. They specialize in visual culture, stories from Southeast Asia, and hidden viewpoints.
I got one book and one zine. It was my first time buying a zine, and to be honest, it was quite pricey. However, I understand that it was worth their creativity and the effort of the people working behind it. The book discusses the publishing industry in Indonesia, authored by... you can read the details on my Threads, hehe.
It was a nice surprise, though. I'm glad I could get something to enjoy.
The verdict?
It was worth visiting, but please do a lot of research to maximize the experience. Like what kind of programs you want to join, which authors are going to come, etc. I can see that the book industry here isn't just focused on books.
Just like K-pop, they created so many kinds of merchandise: perfume, book keyrings, dolls, and other collectible items. I understand, though, that it is not easy to draw people's attention, especially nowadays when everything is evolving with AI. We just need to be wise about how to spend our money (except if you have an unlimited source of income, lol).
One thing that I'm a bit disappointed about is that there were no Indonesian booths. The internet told me there would be a Gramedia booth, but when I looked in the booklet, there was none. I saw some people wearing batik; probably they were Malaysian? Dunno~
All in all, I'm super happy and grateful to check another item off my wishlist :')
What do you think? Are you interested in joining next year?
I'm sharing my experience over and over again on every possible occasion, especially on social media when people compare literacy in Indonesia with developed countries.
So, aside from Seoul Outdoor Library, I've actually also tried several other bookish activities. This time, I'll share my experience visiting the Seoul International Book Fair (SIBF, 서울국제도서전). OMG!! One more item off my wishlist!
They say that SIBF is South Korea's largest book festival held annually. It's hosted at the COEX Convention & Exhibition Center in Gangnam. This event connects readers, publishers, authors, translators, and literary agencies from around the world. Yes, it's not exclusively for local publishers, even if, in reality, the majority of them are Korean publishers. Well, that's understandable since it's held in Seoul, right?
The downside of most systems here is that there is barely any English information available. If anything, it's incomplete. If you want to get detailed information, it's probably better to look for the original (which means... Hangul). I didn't understand how to get a ticket until one of my Instagram mutuals showed me during the presale. I thought if I couldn't get one during that period, that was the end of it.
Turns out I could still buy a ticket during the general sale. The only difference is that it's the original price, not the discounted one.
Make sure you have a Naver account. Then, from there, open the booking page and click on the SIBF page. Luckily, I switched to a phone with AI translation, so I could just click through without the need to take screenshots of everything.You can choose your desired date and then pay. I think it was around 12,000 KRW. Quite pricey for me, it was worth a full meal, LOL.
As I don't really have close friends who are interested in books here, I bravely decided to come ALONE. An introvert like me, coming to a big event by myself. Isn't that a personal upgrade? :))
I came on the first day during lunchtime. And you know what? Even with a ticket in hand, I still needed to exchange it for a wristband. The queue? Around 30 to 45 minutes. In line, I didn't see any other foreigners. Mostly Koreans around my age or younger. Really, it felt like an event set for youngsters, and it was so exciting. Maybe for them, it's something they just can't miss out on.
Before coming, I saw a lot of complaints on Threads: the messed-up lines, hours of waiting, etc. I initially dreaded coming, afraid that I'd face the same. Thankfully, when it was my turn, everything had already been sorted out. I could even enjoy a book while waiting in line.
At the registration desk, I showed my QR code, then got my wristband and a booklet filled with booth information.
Seoul International Book Fair 2026 인간선언: Homo Duduri
Neon green was the color of this year, under the theme Homo duduri. Duduri is an ancient mythical figure in Korean folklore, often associated with the archetype of the dokkaebi (Korean goblin). The name was also once used to describe a blacksmith. Rather than turning away from fire, the blacksmith faces it head-on, harnessing its heat to shape raw materials into tools, objects, and works of art.
The fair presented Artificial Intelligence as a blazing fire: something powerful that can either overwhelm us or become a source of creation. Rather than seeing AI only as an existential threat or simply accepting its fast, probabilistic answers, Homo duduri represents our human instinct to face the fire: to ask new questions, embrace uncertainty and vulnerability, and keep pushing toward deeper, more creative ways of thinking.
My first impression was: OMG, it was so expansive and packed with crowds! I got a headache right away and my energy was drained, LOL. It was that overwhelming.
First of all, I couldn't get enough of the decorations! Especially from the major publishers. They really went all out to create the most eye-pleasing displays possible. Here are some images that I captured.
(PS: I used the help of AI to identify and provide explanations for each picture).
SIBF Curated Thematic Zone & BBK × iloom Lounge
Of course, I had to join in. I think I wrote something like, "Where am I going in the future?" I didn't get to see what others asked, though. It was such an interactive way to engage with visitors.
DongAsia & Hubble (동아시아·허블) (Specializing in Science & Sci-Fi Literature)
ELLE Korea (엘르 코리아) & Stonehenge (스톤헨지)
Maeumsancheck (마음산책) × Makitoy
There was an accent wall featuring framed botanical prints, poetry excerpts, and the poetic motto:“읽고 쓰며 나아가는 사람들은 결국 만나게 되니까” (“Because people who move forward reading and writing will eventually meet”).
Penguin Random House UK (펭귄랜덤하우스 영국)
This booth was filled with sprayed edges that made me want to splurge. However... I resisted, everyone!
WillBook (윌북)
Wisdom House (위즈덤하우스) & wefic
I don't know why, but the tiles reminded me of bathroom walls—aesthetically, at least. The colorful tags were bookmarks and story excerpts for visitors to collect.
Of course, there were A LOT MORE interesting booths. There were even country-specific booths from Taiwan, Thailand, France, and Germany.
It was special for France since marking the 140th anniversary of diplomatic relations between South Korea and France, France served as the official Guest of Honor under the slogan "Lire la France" (Reading France).
At the Thailand booth, they provided food like an all-you-can-eat. So fun! I didn't try any since I didn't know which one was Muslim-friendly (and you know I barely ask, sigh).
I also managed to capture some programs. Yes, this place doesn't only offer things to buy or see; they also have programs with authors: poetry readings, book signings, book talks, etc. You can see the programs you might want to attend on their Instagram page.
This one was author Gu Byeong-mo (구병모)'s book signing.
And this one was a Literature Panel and French Culinary session titled: “세상의 모든 요리, 미식 문화는 어떻게 우리 삶 속에 이야기를 만들어가는가” (All the Dishes of the World: How Gastronomic Culture Creates Stories in Our Lives).
In the sea of Hangul books, could I find something to read? Surprisingly, yes! There was an indie publisher booth called Sojanggak. They specialize in visual culture, stories from Southeast Asia, and hidden viewpoints.
I got one book and one zine. It was my first time buying a zine, and to be honest, it was quite pricey. However, I understand that it was worth their creativity and the effort of the people working behind it. The book discusses the publishing industry in Indonesia, authored by... you can read the details on my Threads, hehe.
It was a nice surprise, though. I'm glad I could get something to enjoy.
The verdict?
It was worth visiting, but please do a lot of research to maximize the experience. Like what kind of programs you want to join, which authors are going to come, etc. I can see that the book industry here isn't just focused on books.
Just like K-pop, they created so many kinds of merchandise: perfume, book keyrings, dolls, and other collectible items. I understand, though, that it is not easy to draw people's attention, especially nowadays when everything is evolving with AI. We just need to be wise about how to spend our money (except if you have an unlimited source of income, lol).
One thing that I'm a bit disappointed about is that there were no Indonesian booths. The internet told me there would be a Gramedia booth, but when I looked in the booklet, there was none. I saw some people wearing batik; probably they were Malaysian? Dunno~
All in all, I'm super happy and grateful to check another item off my wishlist :')
What do you think? Are you interested in joining next year?
While everybody goes on full summer break, I have to admit that my kind of break is half-half. Yes, our scholarship mandate us to attend summer semester. Which means that over these two or three summer months, we have classes between breaks. It alternates back and forth: one week full of classes, then one week off, and then back to class again.
As of now, we’ve finished two of them, leaving only Health Policy. Just one more class, and then it ends with a final exam. Everything moves so ppalli ppalli (fast-fast), huh?
So, what do I want to write about here?
Yes it is about a lecture. Probably the most interesting one, and the one that left the deepest impression on me. It was an intense 5 day course running from morning until evening, complete with daily quizzes and group discussions.
What made it so special was that the lecturers came from outside our school. We had Prof. Gilbert from Johns Hopkins as our primary lecturer, someone from ICRC Korea, and others who have immense experience in the humanitarian field. When I say immense, I mean more than 10 years on the ground!
This course covered everything about disasters and rebuilding lives for refugees. It opened my eyes to a world I had only ever seen on the news. It was difficult. Not because I had to memorize a lot for an exam, but because I was forced to confront the harsh realities of injustice.
I recently stumbled upon a post on Threads that said: as middle-income, we are closer to becoming climate refugees than billionaires. It sounds scary; almost like fear-mongering. Yet I have to acknowledge that it holds a lot of truth.
What key takeaways did I gain from this class?
I saw how people from developed countries view ours, which shattered my bubble.
I was surrounded by highly intelligent and experienced classmates.
As of now, we’ve finished two of them, leaving only Health Policy. Just one more class, and then it ends with a final exam. Everything moves so ppalli ppalli (fast-fast), huh?
So, what do I want to write about here?
This course covered everything about disasters and rebuilding lives for refugees. It opened my eyes to a world I had only ever seen on the news. It was difficult. Not because I had to memorize a lot for an exam, but because I was forced to confront the harsh realities of injustice.
I recently stumbled upon a post on Threads that said: as middle-income, we are closer to becoming climate refugees than billionaires. It sounds scary; almost like fear-mongering. Yet I have to acknowledge that it holds a lot of truth.
What key takeaways did I gain from this class?
I saw how people from developed countries view ours, which shattered my bubble.
To be honest, I think I was living in a bubble. Before, I thought I lived in a fairly decent place: not the kind of environment with extreme poverty and constant social crises. What actually happened was that I was privileged enough.
I have easy access to housing, education, a stable job, and even hobbies without needing a side hustle. I live near the capital city. I already knew how most people lived, especially since I've traveled around high-density areas, but this class put it into a sharper perspective.
I saw how corruption destroys our nation and leaves us completely unprepared for disasters. That is our reality. So many disasters stem directly from human greed. Remember the flash floods in Aceh where the water was filled with logs instead of river water?
And people still struggle to recover because our leader claimed we didn't need help from other countries. Even when it was offered! Simply out of a foolish sense called pride. My god, I truly can't believe it.
Our lecturer pointed out how doctors refuse to go to rural areas. But can we really blame them? The government has never bothered to offer decent incentives. We all know it’s not a matter of budget. Say it again: WE HAVE THE BUDGET. It’s just that those in power don't have the right priorities. They prioritize themselves and their political coalitions. Their ambition to lead isn't rooted in a desire to serve the public; they just want to line their own pockets with public funds.
That is the stark contrast between a developing country and a developed one. In our country, people don't get to complain, analyze, or criticize what is wrong because many lack access to proper education. They don't realize they hold power or that their voices matter. They remain suppressed by the very institutions that are supposed to support them. It is... frustrating.
I have easy access to housing, education, a stable job, and even hobbies without needing a side hustle. I live near the capital city. I already knew how most people lived, especially since I've traveled around high-density areas, but this class put it into a sharper perspective.
I saw how corruption destroys our nation and leaves us completely unprepared for disasters. That is our reality. So many disasters stem directly from human greed. Remember the flash floods in Aceh where the water was filled with logs instead of river water?
And people still struggle to recover because our leader claimed we didn't need help from other countries. Even when it was offered! Simply out of a foolish sense called pride. My god, I truly can't believe it.
Our lecturer pointed out how doctors refuse to go to rural areas. But can we really blame them? The government has never bothered to offer decent incentives. We all know it’s not a matter of budget. Say it again: WE HAVE THE BUDGET. It’s just that those in power don't have the right priorities. They prioritize themselves and their political coalitions. Their ambition to lead isn't rooted in a desire to serve the public; they just want to line their own pockets with public funds.
That is the stark contrast between a developing country and a developed one. In our country, people don't get to complain, analyze, or criticize what is wrong because many lack access to proper education. They don't realize they hold power or that their voices matter. They remain suppressed by the very institutions that are supposed to support them. It is... frustrating.
I was surrounded by highly intelligent and experienced classmates.
Well, I realized this since Day 1, but with the new cohort taking the class with us, it became even clearer. Many of them have extensive experience dealing with international humanitarian issues. They have been on the frontlines helping refugees, distributing aid, and coordinating directly with UN member states and NGOs.
I’m not saying my own work is insignificant, but it exists on a different scale. I’ve worked at the grassroots level within smaller circles, whereas they have worked on a much broader, systemic stage. It was such a privilege to share a classroom with them.
During discussions, they asked such sharp, incisive questions. One classmate even asked, "What is the point of humanitarian law if no entity actually has the power to enforce it?" That was a fair point. And a sobering reality.
What else?
I’m not saying my own work is insignificant, but it exists on a different scale. I’ve worked at the grassroots level within smaller circles, whereas they have worked on a much broader, systemic stage. It was such a privilege to share a classroom with them.
During discussions, they asked such sharp, incisive questions. One classmate even asked, "What is the point of humanitarian law if no entity actually has the power to enforce it?" That was a fair point. And a sobering reality.
What else?
Now I understand (at least based on the literature I’ve read) why so many refugees seek asylum in developed nations like the US, Europe, or Canada. It’s largely because agencies like the UNHCR have far more connections, leverage, and resources to resettle them there. It makes sense, given that developing countries like ours can barely manage our own internal crises </3
To be completely honest, receiving this level of education on a full scholarship comes with a heavy moral weight. Will I be able to function meaningfully in society with what I’ve learned? Can I promise myself that I won't become part of the "brain drain"? Will I be able to give back and build a more sustainable life; at least for the people around me?
I don't have the answers yet. This post serves as a gentle reminder to myself. If I ever find myself lost again, I can sit back, read this reflection, and remember why I started.
Anyway, congratulations to everyone in GHPF and GHS for completing the course!
To be completely honest, receiving this level of education on a full scholarship comes with a heavy moral weight. Will I be able to function meaningfully in society with what I’ve learned? Can I promise myself that I won't become part of the "brain drain"? Will I be able to give back and build a more sustainable life; at least for the people around me?
I don't have the answers yet. This post serves as a gentle reminder to myself. If I ever find myself lost again, I can sit back, read this reflection, and remember why I started.
Anyway, congratulations to everyone in GHPF and GHS for completing the course!
Hayo, siapa yang belum nonton filmnya? So far inilah satu-satunya film Korea dengan subtitle bahasa Inggris yang tersedia disini. Nggak mau ketinggalan dong menyumbang 1 dari 16.91 juta penonton! Apalagi pemeran utamanya tidak lain dan tidak bukan wink boy kesayangan Wannable: Park Ji Hoon.
Lucunya disini kami jadi bahan tontonan haraboji dan halmoni yang makan. Jarang liat foreigner kali ya. Ditatapnya tuh beneran terasa, bahkan aku sampai melempar senyum ke salah satu halmoni :)) beruntungnya, sajangnim alias pemilik resto kasih kami yogurt. Entah emang udah SOP atau servis a.k.a gratisan? :))
Didalam bangunan merah ini ada monumen batu, keliatan kan ya? Namanya Prasasti Danmyo Jaebonbu-si Yuji (단묘재본부시유지비).
"Danmyo" (端廟) adalah gelar yang digunakan untuk menyebut Raja Danjong pada saat itu. Prasasti di bagian depan bertuliskan 端廟在本府時遺址 (Danmyo Jaebonbu-si Yuji), yang berarti "Tempat tinggal Raja Danjong ketika berada di wilayah ini."
Latar belakang dari monumen ini, karena banjir besar sempat melanda wilayahnya, site ini tuh sempet hanyut. Sehingga nggak ada penanda atau informasi kalau ini tuh tempat penting. Kemudian tahun 1763 Raja Yeongjo memerintahkan pendirian monumen ini. Tujuannya agar masyarakat selalu ingat akan sejarah.
Nah saat rekonstruksi tahun 2000 pemerintah modern menjadikan monumen ini sebagai patokan lokasi Eoso.
Selain itu masih ada peninggalan aslinya yaitu:
Gwaneumsong Pine Tree atau pohon pinus di sekeliling bangunan. Diperkirakan berusia 600 tahun. Artinya mereka menjadi saksi bisu terjadinya peristiwa bersejarah disini. Lalu Geumpyobi Headstone dan Manghyangtap. Susunan batu yang katanya untuk berdoa itu looh. Disusun sendiri oleh raja Danjong.
Selama disini nggak kerasa hal aneh-aneh sih. Apa mungkin karena rame ya? Tumplek blek warlok maupun turis mancanegara. Ditambah lagi ada penjelasan dari tour guide lokal (sayangnya berbahasa Korea).
Di masa sekarang pun masih kebayang rasanya diasingkan disini. Literally isinya ya rumah 2 bangunan, pagar, dan pepohonan. Yang kedengeran suara 매미 alias tonggeret khas musim panas.
Berdasarkan filmnya, jenazah Raja Danjong setelah dieksekusi dilempar ke sungai. Nggak ada yang boleh untuk mengubur dengan baik. Sang king warden alias penjaga bernama Eom Heung Do diam-diam mengambil dan mengubur di makam keluarganya.
Situs lokasi kuburan ini sekarang dinamakan Jangneung alias Royal Tomb King Danjong. Udah masuk kedalam UNESCO World Heritage Site. Aku pribadi nggak mencapai kuburannya, karena nggak kuat cuy panas banget nget. Udah pusing menyengat ke ubun-ubun.
Sebagai gantinya aku eksplor bangunan sekitar Royal Tomb. Diantaranya:
Situs yang dibangun sebagai penghormatan kepada hakim Park atas jasanya melakukan ritual penghormatan ke Raja Danjong.
Sebetulnya kedatangan kami untuk meramaikan Yeongwol Donggang Festival. Awalnya di poster ada info rafting. Eh ternyata harus bayar lagi. Dimana posisinya akhir bulan, bokek. Ya sudahlah menikmati aliran sungai sepanjang jembatan Donggang aja. Jauh-jauh ke Korea ujungnya keceh di sungai :))
Bedanya ya sungai ini bersih, bebas sampah. Nggak bau! Saking bersihnya waktu kami ((kungkum)) alias merendam kaki, ada ikan lumayan gede lewat santai gitu aja. Haha!
Alhamdulillah bersyukur bisa menjelajah kota baru lagi selama di Korea. Kalau kamu udah nonton The King's Warden, masukin Yeongwol di itinerary napak tilasnya ya!
Inti dari cerita ini yaitu kisah raja Danjong yang diasingkan, lalu dipertemukan dengan kepala desa setempat untuk menjaganya. Dari yang sebelumnya raja Danjong hanya mau menyendiri, sampai bisa akrab bahkan memberikan permohonan khusus ke kepala desa di akhir hayatnya. Endingnya sedih banget jujurrr aku nontonnya nangis waktu di bioskop.
Akting Park Ji Hoon dan Yoo Hae Jin bagus, klop banget! Nggak kaleng-kaleng sih Ji Hoon jebolan child actor dan Yoo Hae Jin udah termasuk aktor senior.
***
Alhamdulillah setengah tahun setelah filmnya rilis aku bisa berkunjung ke lokasi syutingnya yaitu di kota Yeongwol, provinsi Gangwon. Bersama plus planner, perjalanan dengan bus menempuh waktu 2 - 2,5 jam. Opsi transportasi lain tersedia bisa naik KTX atau ITX dari stasiun Cheongnyangni ke Yeongwol. Pilihan lainnya naik bus dari Dong Seoul Bus Terminal ke Yeongwol Intercity Bus Terminal.
Sebelum booming karena filmnya, rata-rata pengunjung Yeongwol masyarakat paruh baya atau siswa-siwi study tour. Setelahnya? Banyak anak muda dan gen Z (termasuk aku :P) yang tertarik untuk berkunjung ke Yeongwol.
Sebelum napak tilas, kami mampir dulu ke pasar. Namanya 영월서부시장 (Yeongwol Seobu Market atau Achim Market) untuk makan siang.
Produk khasnya ada crepes gurih isi sayur, guksu (mie) dan tteok. Entah kenapa kami nggak tertarik :> pengennya nasi. Alhasil yang kami beli sop kepala sapi. Agak hambar untuk lidah Indonesia, baiknya diracik lagi dengan tambahan bumbu.
Perut terisi, kami menuju destinasi napak tilas pertama bernama Cheongnyeongpo. Ini tuh semacam kelokan sungai bernama Sungai Namhan. Sekelilingnya terdapat tebing curam di satu sisi, sedangkan sisi lainnya perairan dalam.
Untuk menuju kesana bisa naik ferry selama kurang lebih 5 menit. Bahasa jawanya cuma saknyuk-an saking sebentarnya. Harga tiket terbilang murah, sebesar 3000 KRW udah PP. Situs ini isinya beberapa rumah zaman Joseon yang berfungsi sebagai tempat pengasingan raja Danjong.
Sumber: chosun.com
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| Sumber: chosun.com |
Air sungainya nggak dalem. Di filmnya, saat raja Danjong menyeberang, rakitnya nyangkut. Jadi dia ditarik dari arah berlawanan gitu kan. Nah di pengayuhnya yaitu warden alias penjaganya yang diperankan Yoo Hae Jin maksain. Bukan sampai selamat ke tujuan, malah rakitnya terbalik atau kebelah gitu bikin sang raja jatuh ke sungai :/
Bangunan yang ada disini (sebutannya Eoso (어소)) udah rekonstruksi dari tahun 2000. Nggak sembarangan ya. Pemerintah Yeongwol merekonstruksi seakurat mungkin berdasarkan Seungjeongwon Ilgi (Diaries of the Royal Secretariat). Memastikan kalau ukuran (layout), interiornya beneran sesuai sebagaimana adanya pada abad ke-15.
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| Ini rumah utamanya |
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| Rumah asisten |
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| Bagian dalam rumah utama |
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| Sumber: koreatimes.co.kr |
Di site ini ada 2 bangunan yaitu rumah utama tempat raja dan rumah asistennya yang diperankan oleh Jeon Mi Do.
Tepat didepan rumah utama ada Danmyo Yuji Stele Pavilion (단묘유지비각 / 端廟遺址碑閣).
Didalam bangunan merah ini ada monumen batu, keliatan kan ya? Namanya Prasasti Danmyo Jaebonbu-si Yuji (단묘재본부시유지비).
"Danmyo" (端廟) adalah gelar yang digunakan untuk menyebut Raja Danjong pada saat itu. Prasasti di bagian depan bertuliskan 端廟在本府時遺址 (Danmyo Jaebonbu-si Yuji), yang berarti "Tempat tinggal Raja Danjong ketika berada di wilayah ini."
Latar belakang dari monumen ini, karena banjir besar sempat melanda wilayahnya, site ini tuh sempet hanyut. Sehingga nggak ada penanda atau informasi kalau ini tuh tempat penting. Kemudian tahun 1763 Raja Yeongjo memerintahkan pendirian monumen ini. Tujuannya agar masyarakat selalu ingat akan sejarah.
Nah saat rekonstruksi tahun 2000 pemerintah modern menjadikan monumen ini sebagai patokan lokasi Eoso.
Selain itu masih ada peninggalan aslinya yaitu:
Gwaneumsong Pine Tree atau pohon pinus di sekeliling bangunan. Diperkirakan berusia 600 tahun. Artinya mereka menjadi saksi bisu terjadinya peristiwa bersejarah disini. Lalu Geumpyobi Headstone dan Manghyangtap. Susunan batu yang katanya untuk berdoa itu looh. Disusun sendiri oleh raja Danjong.
Selama disini nggak kerasa hal aneh-aneh sih. Apa mungkin karena rame ya? Tumplek blek warlok maupun turis mancanegara. Ditambah lagi ada penjelasan dari tour guide lokal (sayangnya berbahasa Korea).
Di masa sekarang pun masih kebayang rasanya diasingkan disini. Literally isinya ya rumah 2 bangunan, pagar, dan pepohonan. Yang kedengeran suara 매미 alias tonggeret khas musim panas.
Berdasarkan filmnya, jenazah Raja Danjong setelah dieksekusi dilempar ke sungai. Nggak ada yang boleh untuk mengubur dengan baik. Sang king warden alias penjaga bernama Eom Heung Do diam-diam mengambil dan mengubur di makam keluarganya.
Situs lokasi kuburan ini sekarang dinamakan Jangneung alias Royal Tomb King Danjong. Udah masuk kedalam UNESCO World Heritage Site. Aku pribadi nggak mencapai kuburannya, karena nggak kuat cuy panas banget nget. Udah pusing menyengat ke ubun-ubun.
Sebagai gantinya aku eksplor bangunan sekitar Royal Tomb. Diantaranya:
1. Danjong History Museum (단종역사관)
Isi dalamnya berupa artefak sejarah, catatan kerajaan, lukisan, dan diorama seputar Raja Danjong dan para loyalisnya. Termasuk king warden Eum Heong Do. Aku cuma sebentar disini karena....minim penjelasan berbahasa Inggris T_T
2. Jaesil / Ritual House (재실)
Di sebelah museum ada Jaesil. Ini adalah tempat petugas ritual kumpul untuk menyiapkan makanan, minuman, dan wadah untuk upacara penghormatan leluhur. Tau kan ya kalau di Korea ada budaya ziarah kubur. Bangunan ini juga difungsikan untuk tempat tinggal ((PNS)) dan pengawal bagian pengurus serta penjaga makam.
3. Commemorative Pavilion of Bak Chung-won (박충원 낙촌비각)
Sebetulnya kedatangan kami untuk meramaikan Yeongwol Donggang Festival. Awalnya di poster ada info rafting. Eh ternyata harus bayar lagi. Dimana posisinya akhir bulan, bokek. Ya sudahlah menikmati aliran sungai sepanjang jembatan Donggang aja. Jauh-jauh ke Korea ujungnya keceh di sungai :))
Alhamdulillah bersyukur bisa menjelajah kota baru lagi selama di Korea. Kalau kamu udah nonton The King's Warden, masukin Yeongwol di itinerary napak tilasnya ya!
Sebelum kembali ke kelas untuk duduk dan mendengarkan profesor, mari menjelajah ke satu kota baru lagi. Kemana? Sokcho!
Berbekal 20000 KRW udah dapet akomodasi full PP Seoul-Sokcho + Taxi Tour senilai 30000 KRW + kaos dan totebag. Kok bisa? Iya. Di Korea tuh banyak tur subsidi pemerintah khusus untuk pendatang alias foreigner.
Apakah ada kewajiban tertentu? Kadang iya dengan posting di media sosial untuk tur yang beneran gratis tanpa mengeluarkan apapun. Untuk trip yang masih bayar gini cuma mau difoto as a group dan diposting di medsos penyelenggara aja. Enak kan? Enak dong :P
Cons-nya sih trip kayak gini umumnya ppali-ppali alias cepet-cepet. Mengejar beberapa destinasi bukan menikmati. Yaah tinggal pilihan aja mau seperti apa. Kebetulan Sokcho ini udah masuk ke daftar list yang perlu aku kunjungi. Alhamdulillah kesempatan dan waktunya cocok.
Pagi hari jam 7 pagi kami udah standby di area Hongdae. Katanya akan ada bus yang menunggu. Udah beberapa lama kok gak ada yah? Mana tour guide-nya nunggu di drop point lain. Usut punya usut bukan bus, melainkan minivan. Pantes aja nggak ketemuu :))
Sokcho merupakan kota pesisir di Provinsi Gangwon. Kotanya cukup unik, punya pantai dan gunung secara bersamaan. Berjarak 180an kilometer dari Seoul, butuh waktu 2-3 jam dengan kendaraan pribadi.
Saat tur kami agak kurang beruntung, macet panjang banget! Molor hampir 4 jam. Gapapa deh yang penting terlindungi dari terik matahari didalam mobil. Toh kendaraannya nyaman pula.
Sampai di Sokcho pas tengah hari dimana matahari rasanya tepat diatas kepala. Kami turun di Sokcho Express Terminal untuk di-assign taxinya. Kami terbagi jadi grup yang ke Abai Village dan ke Seoraksan. Kebetulan aku pilih ke Seoraksan.
Rute taxi tour yang kami dapatkan seperti ini:
Seoraksan National Park
Salah satu pendakian paling populer di Korea. Masuk kedalam UNESCO Biosphere Reserve tahun 1982. Daftar ini didapat karena Seoraksan punya biodiversity yang tinggi, spesies tanaman langka dan hewan terancam punah: Korean goral (sejenis antelope) serta musk deer.
Di tahun 1994, Seoraksan termasuk dalam UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List. Daftar ini merupakan daftar resmi berisikan kandidat tempat/situs sebelum layak masuk kategori UNESCO World Heritage.
Sebagai pengetahuan, di Indonesia daftar National Park yang masuk ke UNESCO World Heritage ada Komodo National Park, Ujung Kulon National Park, dan Lorentz National Park.
Luas Seoraksan sekitar 398 kilometer persegi. Puncak tertingginya yaitu Daecheongbong Peak (1708 mdpl). Ranking ketiga di Korea setelah Hallasan dan Jirisan. Kalau mau mendaki full course bisa makan waktu 10-14 jam. Apakah kami mendakinya?
Tentu tidak :P
Easy tourist ini sesampainya di Seoraksan langsung ke tiket cable car. LOL.
Harap maklum. Nggak punya persiapan hiking, emang nggak diniatkan sih. Terbatas waktu pula. Shortcutnya adalah naik cable car. Tiket seharga 12000 KRW round trip per orang. Ada jam yang bisa dipilih.
Waktu terdekat yang bisa kami dapatkan tetap harus menunggu kurang lebih 1 jam. Kami memutuskan untuk makan siang dulu di resto sebelah ticket booth.
Kami pesan menu seafood dan bibimbap. Agak lucu yah mengingat ini gunung tapi kok hidangannya laut? Eits, kan dia punya pantai juga. Jadi nggak heran. Harga makanannya tergolong standar di range belasan ribu sudah termasuk banchan (side dish).
Selesai makan kami kembali mengantri untuk naik cable car. Jujur agak merinding shay liat ketinggian cable car ini. Bawahnya tuh bebatuan tajam gitu.
Hamdalahnya cable car ini rasanya solid dan nggak ada guncangan berarti. Selama di cable car berdiri, nggak ada tempat duduk.
Pemandangannya...masyaAllah tabarakallah bund. Bagus buanget. Bebatuan + rimbun pohon + pesisir pantai di kejauhan. Seneng banget bisa mendaki dengan cara mudah kayak gini :P
Sampai di Gwongeumseong Peak kami liat-liat aja sekeliling. Panas ngentang-ngentang mohon maaf T_T sempet ngerasain dikit jalan disekitar area berbatu ini. Agak ngeri ya shay kalau tergelincir.
Di puncak ini juga kedengeran Daily Sutra Recitations (Yebul / 예불) dan moktak (목탁). Doa-doa dalam agama Buddha diiringi instrumennya.
Merasa cukup disini, kami turun dan nyamperin supir taksi yang udah menunggu. Destinasi selanjutnya harusnya pasar. Tapii ketika supir tau kami bisa bahasa Korea sikit-sikit, dia bilang skip aja.
"Di Seoul ada pasar kan?"
"Ada sih..."
"Makanya, gak usah. Sebagai gantinya kalian aku ajak keliling danau aja"
"Makanya, gak usah. Sebagai gantinya kalian aku ajak keliling danau aja"
Bhaiqqq. Jadilah sepanjang jalan itu kami menyusuri area Yeongnangho sambil mendengarkan penjelasan beliau. Mungkin dikira kami udah paham 100% kali ya. Beliau dengan semangat 45 menjelaskan banyak hal. Padahal jujur kami cuma paham setengahnya aja. LOL. Gapapa lah, makasih gisanim udah ditemenin.
Yeongnangho
Penjelasan yang kami tangkap adalah tentang danau terhubung dengan laut. Disini bisa menikmati jalan setapak untuk jogging atau bersepeda, lapangan golf, dan jembatan terapung. Menurut sang supir musim terbaik untuk menikmati pemandangannya pada musim semi.
"Besok musim semi balik lagi kesini bawa orang tua kalian", kata beliau sambil memberikan kartu namanya. Aih, baiklah. Semoga ada rezekinya ya paak.
Pemandangannya sebagus itu emang. Kami padahal "hanya" menikmati dari dalam taksi dengan jendela terbuka. Dari kejauhan tampak air danau tenang yang memantulkan cerah sinar matahari. Ditambah kalau menyeberangi jembatan terapungnya bakal bisa melihat pemandangan 360 derajat. Di satu sisi ada pemandangan laut, sisi lainnya Seoraksan.
Batu yang ditunjukin lupa apaan, ga terlalu paham :))
Yeonggeumjeong Sunrise Pavilion
Destinasi pantai pertama yang kami singgahi. Nama Yeong-geum (영금 / 靈琴) diambil dari instrumen tradisional Korea. Semacam kecapi dengan enam senar. Berdasarkan sejarahnya, lebih ke cerita rakyat ini..waktu ombak laut menghantam bebatuan di pinggir pantai, ada bunyi yang tercipta. Nah menurut masyarakat dahulu kala ini mirip dengan suara alat musik yang dimainkan oleh spirit. Dewa? Roh halus? Semacam itulah.
Adapun kata Jeong (정 / 亭) berarti paviliun. Sebenarnya situs ini di zaman kolonial Jepang belum berupa paviliun, melainkan pemecah ombak. Lalu dilakukan beberapa perubahan, tapi pemerintahnya pengen mempertahankan peninggalan ini. Akhirnya dibangunlah paviliun sebagai ikon barunya.
Sesuai namanya, paviliun (atau gazebo?) paling cocok berburu matahari terbit. Yaah kami sih nggak mengalami karena datengnya bukan di pagi hari :)) meski begitu tetep menikmati bengong menatap burung-burung berterbangan sambil mendengar deburan ombak. Sesekali ada kapal yang lewat juga menambah keramaian.
Terakhir sekaligus penutup kami diantar ke Sokcho Beach.
Sokcho Beach
Ternyata pemirsaaa pantai ini cuma berjarak 5-10 menit jalan kaki dari terminal kedatangan kami! Gampang banget untuk diakses. Disini ada yang nyebur dan main air. Aku kebagian duduk santai nungguin barang. Walau nggak ditungguin pun tetap aman yah.
Pantainya rame banget nget kayak pasar. Tumplek blek semua tua muda cowok cewek. Harus hati-hati mengarahkan pandangan, maklum busananya minim bahan kan lagi di pantai~
Sebenarnya ada attraction yang bisa dilakukan, yaitu Sokcho Eye. Sebuah kincir alias ferris wheel. Tapi kami lagi bokek HAHA udah budgetnya buat makan dan cable car sebelumnya. Gapapa lah skip aja. Yang penting udah merasakan Sokcho vibes~ Azek~
***
Alhamdulillah puas. Another city unlocked. Masih banyak daerah yang belum kukunjungi. Sejong, Gyeongju, Daegu, Daejeon, ah kapan ya? YaAllah tolong kasih rezeki melimpah :"))
Jalan-jalan outdoor waktu summer gini sungguh menguras kesabaran. Walau asalku dari Semarang yang panasnya juga kerasa di ubun-ubun, tetep aja ini tuh menyengat. Siap-siap bawa payung anti UV, sunscreen, kacamata demi trip yang bebas tantrum :))
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